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satisfactory results will not be obtained. The constant tapping of a loose connecting
rod on the crank shaft will eventually produce crystallization of the steel—result,
broken crank shaft and possibly other parts of the engine damaged.
Crank Shaft Main Bearings
—how adjusted? Answer No. 34
Should the stationary bearings in which the crank shaft revolves become worn
(evidenced by a pounding in the motor) and need replacing or adjusting, proceed
as follows:
(1) After the engine has been taken out of the car, remove crank case, trans-mission
cover, cylinder head, pistons, connecting rods, transmission and magneto coils.
Take off the three babbitted caps and clean the bearing surfaces with gasoline.
Apply Prussian blue or red lead to the crank shaft bearing surfaces, which will
enable you, in fitting the caps, to determine whether a perfect bearing surface
is obtained.
(2) Place the rear cap in position and tighten it up as much as possible without
stripping the bolt threads. When the bearing has been properly fitted, the crank
shaft can be turned with one hand. If the crank shaft cannot be turned with one
hand, the contact between the bearing surfaces is evidently too close, and the
cap requires shimming up, one or two brass liners usually being sufficient. In
case the crank shaft moves too easily with one hand, the shims should be removed
and the steel surface of the cap filed off, permitting it to set closer.
(3) After removing the cap, observe whether the blue or red "spottings" indicate
a full bearing the length of the cap. If "spottings" do not show a
true bearing, the babbitt should be scraped and the cap refitted until the proper
results are obtained.
(4) Lay the rear cap aside and proceed to adjust the center bearing in the same
manner. Repeat the operation with the front bearing, with the other two bearings
laid aside.
(5) When the proper adjustment of each bearing has been obtained; clean the babbitt
surface carefully and place a little lubricating oil on the bearings, also on
the crank shaft; then draw the caps up as closely as possible—the necessary shims,
of course, being in place. Do not be afraid of getting the cap bolts too tight,
as the shim under the cap and the oil between the bearing surfaces will prevent
the metal being drawn into too close contact. If oil is not put on the bearing
surfaces, the babbitt is apt to cut out when the motor is started up before the
oil in the crank case can get into the bearing. In replacing the crank case and
transmission cover on the motor, it is advisable to use a new set of gaskets
to prevent oil leaks.
The Ford Cooling System
How is the Engine cooled?
The heat generated by the constant explosions in the engine would soon overheat
and ruin the engine, were it not cooled by some artificial means. The Ford
engine is cooled by the circulation of water in jackets around the cylinders.
The heat is extracted from the water by its passing through the thin metal
tubing of the radiator—to which are attached scientifically worked out fins,
which assist in the rapid radiation of the heat. The fan, just back of the
radiator, sucks the air around the tubing—around which the air is also driven
by the forward movement of the car. The belt should be inspected frequently
and tightened when necessary—not too tight, however—by means of the adjusting
screw in the fan bracket. Take up the slack till the fan starts to bind when
turned by hand.
How does the
Water circulate? Answer No. 36
The cooling apparatus of the Ford car is known as the Thermo-syphon system.
It acts on the principle that hot water seeks a higher level than cold water—consequently
when the water reaches a certain heat, approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit,
circulation commences and the water flows from the lower radiator outlet pipe
up through the water jackets, into the upper radiator water tank, and down
through the tubes to the lower tank, to repeat the process.
What are the causes of
Overheating? Answer No. 37
(1) Carbonized cylinders; (2) too much driving on low speed; (3) spark retarded
too far; (4) poor ignition; (5) not enough or poor grade oil; (6) racing motor;
(7) clogged muffler; (8) improper carburetor adjustment; (9) fan not working
properly on account of broken or slipping belt; (10) improper circulation of
water due to clogged or jammed radiator tubes, leaky connections or low water.
What should be done when the
Radiator overheats? Answer No. 38
Keep the radiator full. Don't get alarmed if it boils occasionally—especially
in driving through mud and deep sand or up long hills in extremely warm weather.
Remember that the engine develops the greatest efficiency when the water is
heated nearly to the boiling point. But if there is persistent overheating
when the motor is working under ord:nary conditions—find the cause of the trouble
and remedy it. The chances are that the difficulty lies in improper driving
or carbonized cylinders. Perhaps twisting the fan blades at a greater angle
to produce more suction may bring desired results. By reference to the proper
division of this book each of the causes which contribute to an overheated
radiator is treated and remedies suggested. No trouble can result from the
filling of a heated radiator with cold water—providing the water system is
not entirely empty—in which case the motor should be allowed to cool before
the cold water is introduced.
How about cleaning
the Radiator? Answer No. 39
The entire circulating system should be thoroughly flushed out occasionally.
To
do this properly, the radiator inlet and outlet hose should be disconnected,
and the
radiator flushed out by allowing the water to enter the filler neck at ordinary
pressure, from whence it will flow down through the tubes and out at the drain
cock and hose. The water jackets can be flushed out in the same manner. Simply
