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7. Front spring slipped on saddle due to sheered tie bolt.
8. Over lubricated front springs.
9. Sagging or broken front springs.
10. Under inflated tires.
11. Unbalanced or missmounted tires.
12. Motor mountings improperly adjusted.
13. Broken motor mountings.
14. Motor not properly tuned.
15. Brakes dragging.
16. Hub bolts loose.
17. Shock absorbers not operating properly.
After this inspection is completed and the conditions corrected, the car should be placed on the front end machine and checked. There are several types of front end machines on the market using different mechanical means for locating and correcting front end troubles. The instructions furnished by each manufacturer for the operation of his particular machine should be followed.
How To Remove Front Wheels
Lift the wheel from the ground with a jack under the front axle "I" beam.
Remove hub cap. Pull out cotter pin, locking the spindle nut. Remove
the spindle nut and spindle washer. Remove front wheel.
The outer cone and balls and the inner cone are loose and may be
easily removed. The inner balls may be removed by prying out the
inner bearing felt retainer. If this is done, a new felt retainer
assembly should be used when reassembling. The ball cups are pressed
into the hubs and can be driven out by inserting a bar through
the hub so that one end rests against the cup. By tapping lightly
at several points around the circumference of the cup, through
notches in shoulder inside of hub, it can be removed without damage.
It is well to remember that the cups are very hard, there-fore,
extreme care should be used in removing not to crack them.
In replacing the cups, be sure that they are pressed into the hubs
evenly and as far as they will go, that is that their backs are
against the shoulder in the bottom of the hole. The parts of the
bearings inside of the hub should be carefully cleaned and covered
with cup grease before replacing.
CAUTION: The necessity of removing the cups is usually due to damage
to the ball race in the cups, in which event, the only remedy is
a new part.
When replacing the front wheel be sure the inner oil deflector
is in its proper place between the inner bearing cone and the shoulder
on the knuckle spindle. As the wheel is pushed onto the spindle
it should be made certain that the inner oil deflector has passed
inside of the outer oil deflector,
96
Be sure that the nuts which hold the wheel to the wheel hub are
put on with the taper side to the wheel hub.
Adjusting Front Wheel Bearings
After the wheel has been replaced on the steering knuckle spindle,
with the bearings and felt retainer in their proper location,
install the spindle washer against the inner race of the outer
bearing and screw up the retaining nut only tight enough to seat
the parts. See Fig. 207. Back off the nut slowly until a slight
shake is felt in the wheel, then screw up the nut until the next
cotter pin slot in the nut lines up with the cotter pin hole
in the spindle. The adjustment should then be such that
Fig. 207— Adjusting Front Wheel Bearings
the wheel will turn very freely, but with no perceptible looseness.
It is well to note that the slight friction of a new snugly fitting
felt retainer assembly will temporarily produce a slight drag on
the wheel, but this is easily recognized and need not be con-fused
with adjustment of the bearing. Spin the wheel, making sure that
all parts are in correct position, then insert cotter pin and clinch
in securely
Steering Connecting Rod
The steering connecting rod, commonly called drag link, which connects
the steering and third arm on the front axle to the pitman arm,
is of conventional design.
Refer to Fig. 208, and note how parts are assembled. On the axle
end the spring and spacer are assembled between the rod end and
the ball seat. On the steering gear end the spring and spacer are